Between castles and the sea

The castle on Holy Island, Northumberland

We’ve had a fabulous time exploring Britain this September. There is so much to see and do. Our last week was spent in Northumberland, England’s northernmost and least populated county.

We've walked six miles or more a day, through rain, sun, and cloud. We’ve discovered ancient castles, wide beaches, old railway lines and open vistas. Here are some of our favourite memories of the last week:

St Dunstanburgh castle from the beach

The Northumberland Coastal Path. This long-distance hike runs up the Northumberland coast and we took the opportunity to walk a few sections – returning via long sandy beaches to our start point.

St. Dunstanburgh castle is a spectacular 14th century ruin, sitting on a windswept promontory overlooking the wild North Sea. The Northumberland Coastal Path passes right past the ‘front’ door. The wind blew us along and the rain thudded against our waterproofs. It felt like the setting for a medieval mystery.

Rainswept but unbowed!

The beach huts near to Embleton are in one of the best spots I’ve come across. The lack of electric wouldn’t be an issue, but the water is also turned off in winter so they are a summer only hideaway. Pity as it would be amazing to experience a Northumberland winter here!

Some of these summer beach huts are for rent

Alnwick. Pronounced, in that peculiarly British way, as Ann-ick, Alnwick is an ancient town dominated by its 11th century castle and was our home for a week.

Alnwick castle has been used in many films including as Hogwarts in Harry Potter

Our favourite spots in town were Barter Books – one of the largest secondhand book shops in Britain and difficult to exit without arms full of books we have no space for in the overloaded car, and the Ale Gate pub. This latter has a fabulous six real ale pumps with a rapid turnover of brews meaning we could try a whole range in our short time in Alnwick.

Try leaving Barter Books, in the old railway station, empty handed!

One of my favourite walks in Alnwick was around the Hulne Estate, just outside the town centre. We did a six mile loop through pasture, alongside rivers, and up a hill with views for miles. Along the way we spotted herons, ducks, deer, and more pheasant than I’ve ever seen. They wandered along the roadway, through the trees and under the fences with abandon.

Hulne Estate owned by the Dukes of Northumberland

The old railway line into Alnmouth. Alnmouth sits, unsurprisingly, at the mouth of the river Aln and is a lovely small town full of pubs, cafes and shops. The beach sits invitingly at the end of the road with a few handily placed park benches overlooking the sea.

The mouth of the river Aln

Our walk began along the route of the old railway line from Alnwick, unfortunately subsumed and largely abandoned (there is a tourist train runs back and forward along a short stretch). It was a pleasant wander, despite the drizzle. As we reached Alnmouth, the rain hardened and we dashed into the Old School Gallery and Café. A look around and a decent cuppa later the sun was back so we sat on one of the benches looking out to sea for a while.

Our return walk was along the river and, bizarrely, the only part which was hilly… go figure! As we passed beneath the current mainlone railway viaduct, the rain came down once more. We cracked on, finally sheltering beneath the old railway bridge to nibble our butties. Not the most picturesque of spots but, hey!

A hilly river walk and a tall viaduct to shelter beneath

Holy Island, or Lindisfarne, is well-known to anyone who has visited this coast. Cut off from the mainland at high tide, all traffic has to traverse the narrow causeway. Photos on the island show what happens when tourists disregard the warnings about safe crossing times. One photo showed a family sitting on top of their half sunken car, awaiting rescue. I wonder what the insurance company had to say about that?

Lindisfarne Abbey

Our favourite spots in town were Barter Books – one of the largest secondhand book shops in Britain and difficult to exit without arms full of books we have no space for in the overloaded car, and the Ale Gate pub. This latter has a fabulous six real ale pumps with a rapid turnover of brews meaning we could try a whole range in our short time in Alwick.